Bolu yöresi kadın başlıklarının göstergebilimsel açıdan incelenmesi
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Date
2023
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Publisher
İstanbul Ticaret Üniversitesi
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info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
Abstract
Geleneksel giyim kuşam, her kültürde olduğu gibi, Türk kültürünün de zenginliğini ortaya çıkaran en önemli unsurlardan biri olmakla birlikte inanç, yaşayış, duygu, düşünce, statü gibi ögeleri barındıran bir iletişim nesnesi olma işlevini de üstlenmiştir. Bir giysinin görsel yönü, ait olduğu toplumun kültürel kodları ile ilgilidir. Bu bağlamda "göstergebilimsel çözümleme" topluma ait geleneksel kodların belirlenmesi açısından önem taşımaktadır. Giysi parçalarının anlamlarının çözümlenmesiyle o kültüre ait bellek açığa çıkarılır. Göstergebilimin giysi incelemelerinde uygulanması; giysilere yeni bir bakış açısı getirilmesine, göstergelerin betimleme, yorumlama, okuma gibi anlamsal yönünü bulmada yol gösterici olacaktır. İmgelerin ifade ettiği duyguyu ve düşünceyi kavrayabilmek için göstergebilimin çözümleme tekniklerinden yararlanarak giysiye yeniden yaklaşmak farklı bakış açıları geliştirilmesini sağlayacaktır. Çalışma, Bolu'nun Mengen ilçesinde günlük ve törensel etkinliklerde kullanılan geleneksel poğ, fes, al ve duvaktan oluşan kadın başlıkları ile sınırlandırılmıştır. Göstergebilimin çözümlemeleriyle geleneksel giysilerin anlam evrenini kavramayı amaçlayan bu çalışmada yöredeki kadın başlıklarının tasarlama biçimleri ve kullanım özellikleri incelenmiştir. Örneklerde yansıtılan "anlamlama" ve "anlama" evrelerinin göstergebilimsel yöntemle okuması yapılmış ve bir iletişim dizgesi oluşturulmuştur. Bu iletişim dizgesi üzerinde etkili olduğu düşünülen Mengen yaşam biçimi gelenek ve görenekleri, tarih ve coğrafyasına ait özellikler saptanmaya çalışılmıştır. Araştırmada çeşitli kaynaklardan yararlanılarak aynı zamanda yörede yüz yüze görüşme yöntemi uygulanmış olup başlıkların kullanım, renk, motif ve derleme özellikleri yörede yapılan çalışmalarla belirlenerek fotoğraf ve video yoluyla belgelenmiştir. Barthes'ın yönteminden yola çıkılarak sırasıyla; göstergeler tespit edilmiş ve bu göstergelerin düz anlam ve yan anlam düzleminde gösteren-gösterilen, dizim-dizge yapıları ile mit ve çağrışım kapsamı incelenmiştir.
Traditional clothing, as well as being one of the most important elements that reveal the richness of Turkish culture, as in every culture, has also undertaken the function of being a communication object that includes elements such as belief, life, emotion, thought and status. The visual aspect of a cloth is related to the cultural codes of the society it belongs to. In this context, "semiotic analysis" is important in terms of determining the traditional codes of society. By analyzing the meanings of clothing pieces, the memory of that culture is revealed. The application of semiotics in clothing analysis will guide to bring a new perspective to clothing and to find the semantic aspects of signs such as description, interpretation and reading. In order to comprehend the emotion and thought expressed by the images, utilizing the analysis techniques of semiotics, approaching the meanings in clothes again will enable the development of a different perspective. The study is limited to women's headdresses consisting of traditional poğ, fez, al and veil used in daily and ceremonial activities in Mengen district of Bolu. In this study, which aims to comprehend the meaning universe of traditional clothes with the analysis of semiotics, the design forms and usage features of women's headdresses in the region were examined. The "meaning" and "understanding" phases reflected in the examples were read by semiotic method and a communication system was formed. It has been tried to determine the characteristics of Mengen lifestyle , traditions and customs, history and geography, which are thought to be effective on this communication system. In the research, using various sources, as well as face-to-face interviews in the region, the use, color, motif and fiction features of the titles were determined by the studies carried out in the region and documented by photography and video. Starting from the interpretation of Barthes, respectively; indicators were determined and these indicators were interpreted within the scope of myth and connotation with their syntax-string structures, which are signified - signified on the plane of denotation and connotation.
Traditional clothing, as well as being one of the most important elements that reveal the richness of Turkish culture, as in every culture, has also undertaken the function of being a communication object that includes elements such as belief, life, emotion, thought and status. The visual aspect of a cloth is related to the cultural codes of the society it belongs to. In this context, "semiotic analysis" is important in terms of determining the traditional codes of society. By analyzing the meanings of clothing pieces, the memory of that culture is revealed. The application of semiotics in clothing analysis will guide to bring a new perspective to clothing and to find the semantic aspects of signs such as description, interpretation and reading. In order to comprehend the emotion and thought expressed by the images, utilizing the analysis techniques of semiotics, approaching the meanings in clothes again will enable the development of a different perspective. The study is limited to women's headdresses consisting of traditional poğ, fez, al and veil used in daily and ceremonial activities in Mengen district of Bolu. In this study, which aims to comprehend the meaning universe of traditional clothes with the analysis of semiotics, the design forms and usage features of women's headdresses in the region were examined. The "meaning" and "understanding" phases reflected in the examples were read by semiotic method and a communication system was formed. It has been tried to determine the characteristics of Mengen lifestyle , traditions and customs, history and geography, which are thought to be effective on this communication system. In the research, using various sources, as well as face-to-face interviews in the region, the use, color, motif and fiction features of the titles were determined by the studies carried out in the region and documented by photography and video. Starting from the interpretation of Barthes, respectively; indicators were determined and these indicators were interpreted within the scope of myth and connotation with their syntax-string structures, which are signified - signified on the plane of denotation and connotation.
Description
Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, Tekstil ve Moda Tasarımı Ana Bilim Dalı, Moda Tekstil Tasarımı Bilim Dalı
Keywords
Giyim Endüstrisi, Clothing Industry
